Tag Archives: Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Retin A vs Cell Growth Factors- Which is Better?

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This week’s question  shows how far  skin care products  have come in the last ten years.  Both cell growth factors and Retin A  are significant anti-aging tools.  Cell growth factors wake up old tired fibroblasts in the skin and get them to provide  more collagen.  Retin A also  increases healthy young collagen in the skin but we don’t exactly know  why.  In addition the retinoids stimulat circulation   producing a youthful healthy glow to the skin.  Finally retionoids  exfoliate the skin  that has three, count ‘em three great benefits–  it removes dull dry tired skin, it stimulates the growth of  new fresh  skin and it slowly lightens discolorations and flat age spots. Nice.

But both retinoid and cell growth factors products are a few  issues.  Retinoids  can be very irritating and  some women  just can’t use them.  For women of color, retin A  may actually cause increased  pigmentation because of the irritation.  Cell growth factors are far more gentle and do not increased sensitivity to the sun like Retin A and alpha hydroxy acids. In cold wintery weather it can be very hard to use Retin A everyday and cell growth factors will   help the skin withstand cold windy weather.  However  they are unregulated. Unlike retinoids which have to list their concentration, there is little way of knowing how much  growth factor is actually  in a  that pricy tube or jar.  It could be a full effective dose or  just a drop  so that  it can be included on the list of ingredients on the label.

To bottomline it,  I don’t think its an either/or situation.  I think there is a role for both retinoids and cell growth factors  in a  successful  anti-aging plan.  There is good science behind  Rejuve MD with cell growth factors  and I use it rotation with Retin A Micro and a vitamin C serum  from Skinceuticals.   I tend to reach for my cell growth factors when  I don’t want to wait for 30 minutes to apply a night treatment before going to  bed.  Both  Retin A and vitamin C can sting  if applied to freshly washed skin and treatment products with cell growth factors are soothing rather than irritating.    One final thought. Some experts recommend using both at at the same time.  I’m not a big fan of layering because I’m concerned about absorption .  I use them on different nights and love the results.

Glycolic Acid: Five Top Questions

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Glycolic Acid is an amazing anti-aging tool. Used in a peel it  gives the skin a fresh rosy glow tht lasts for hours.  In a moisturizer,  glycolic acid increases cell renewal,  stimulates collagen and reduces wrinkles– sort of  a baby steps  Retin A. The trick is getting  maximum  benefits.

1.  What’s the difference between a glycolic peel at home and an office based peel?

The glycolic peel you can buy in stores contains 10-12% glycolic acid.  It will give your skin a little extra boost and a bit of a glow.  Cost:  $2/treatment.  THe office based peel uses 30-70% glycolic acid.  It can  leave your skin pretty red, and by the next day, somewhat flaky.  Everything calms down within 48 hours leaving your skin especially smooth and fresh.  Cost:  Range form $100-150 per session.  Home peels can be used several times a week, while office based peels are used no more than once a month.

2. Can I use glycolic acid on my neck and chest? 

Yes and yes.  Use the home peel on your neck and you will see pinker, fresher skin.  On the chest you will not see as much difference, especially if the area looks as if  has a a year round tan– but its safe to use.

3. Can I combine glycolic  acid and Retin A?

The short answer is sometimes.  If you are just starting to use Retin A or  have moved up to a stronger concentration, then its best to avoid glycolic acid.  However if you have been using Retin A for at least six months,  adding glycolic peels or moisturizer will give your skin a lovely boost.

4. Can I combine IPL and glycolic acid?

No, you need to stop using glycolic acid two days before and at least three days after IPL procedure– and this hold true for laser treatments for freckles and hair removal.

5. Should I use glycolic acid in the morning or at night?

Most derms recommend  using glycolic acid at bedtime.  All alpha hydroxy acids( like glycolic acid)  can increase sensitivity to UV rays and you want all the benefits  of glycolic acid without additional problems.

Tri-luma- Five Top Questions

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1.  Can I use Tri-luma on  my chest?

In theory, yes but its not going to be that effective.  A chest with lots of freckles and age spots will need more help than Tri-lima can  provide.  Once areas of hyperpigmentation become raised and lumpy, you’re going to need some kind of  laser or IPL to deal with them. 

2. Can I use Tri-luma and Retin A together ? 

It  depends. Tri-luma already contains Retin A to increase cell turnover, hydroquinone to break down  and discourage pigment formation and a steroid to keep down inflammation.  If you are using Tri-luma  under  your eyes, you can  then apply Retin  A to the other facial areas.  If you have areas of discoloration on your cheeks and forehead, you can use Tri-luma on these areas, but not at the same time you are  using Retin A. It won’t do a  better  job and will  make you skin terribly irritated.

3. Can Tri-luma make your skin worse?

Sad but true.  For some  skin types, Tri-luma  may cause irritation that will actually trigger pigment  formation.  Women of color are especially at risk ( including Hispanic, Asian, Indian and African American skin) and may show a darkening of the areas treated with Tri-luma.  This is why you need to be under the supervision of  dermtologist when using Tri-luma to spot signs of  trouble before they can develop into new  dark patches.  

4. How long can I use  Tri-luma?

Unlike  Retin A which can be used for years, Tri-luma cannot be used for more than 3 consecutive months.  Then you need to take a “Tri-luma holiday” for the next three months before using it again. 

5. Should I put an eye cream over Tri-luma?

After you put Tri-luma under  your eyes at night you can top it with a  little dab of  a very mild formulation to  lessen irritation. Look for an eye cream without alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin C and retinols– all good ingredients,  but  they can be too irritating when using Tri-luma.  During the day, you don’t use Tri-luma, but you should use an eye cream with a sunscreen  to protect the skin from UV damage.

All these does and don’t   kind of  take the fun out  anti-aging, but Tri-luma is  not  as easy to use as Retin A.  It can  deliever some very nice results, but  its a high maintenance remedy.  It did a great job  on my dark blue/grey under eye shadows, but   they crept back when I had to go on  my  Tri-luma hiatus.  I’m glad to  be using it again, and I see  results after only a week. Let me know if you have additional Triluma issues.

Is Water the Secret to Beautiful Skin?

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Its hard to pick up a newpaper or magazine without reading of another celebrity  who credits her  good looks to-wait for it- drinking  plenty of water.  For example Kim Kardashian   has admitted to  extensive laser hair removal (” hey, I’m Armeanian”) and  posted  photos of her post- Botox bruises.  Yet in an interview she credits her luminous skin and incredible body  to drinking water.

Now I have nothing against water but its not the fountain  of youth.  I drink it every day and in fact I  especially like Poland Spring water  which is from a real  spring and not  just filtered  reservoir water.  And I can understand that iconic beauties don’t want to reveal their use of Botox, fillers, lasers or even IPL.  But why  can’t they  share some  real beauty advice that is safe and affordable such as   Retin A, glycolic peels or microdermabrasion.  Something more honest than water.

Using Facial Imaging to Identify Skin Aging

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This photo  shows the areas of sun damage via  theCanfield Imaging System. ( And I’m so glad that this is not a dating site).  On the left is a standard  photo and my skin looks fairly even in color.  On the right its a different story.  The brown spots are areas of hyperpigmentation– too much melanin from sun exposure.  What I find really interesting  are the light areas under the nose and around the eyebrows which are areas  where there is loss of pigmentation  Apparently UV rays can destroy cells ability to make any pigment.  Its not really visable to the naked eye, but it causes the skin to look dull and tired.  I was amused that the special cameras picked up the loss of pigment  areound the hair line– otherwise known as grey hair.

Next step will be to try out different remedies and then retake the facial imaging.  I asm really psyched to try out another three months with Tri-luma for under eye circles.  I also will be using my new  turbo powered Retin A  which according to research should be effective on these damaged areas. Sun-damaged areas are not only a cosmetic problem– they can also develop into skin cancers.  Getting rid of them is actually good preventive medicine. 

This imaging system is available  with dermatologists and spas  across the US.  If you want to try it out, send me your zip code, and I will find the nearest one to you.  And no, you don’t have to post the not terribly flattering photo.

Moisturizers CAN Prevent Lines and Wrinkles

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Most doctors dismiss  the idea that moisturizers can prevent signs of aging–  and I believed them. But now new research may change their minds– and mine.  A new study  just published in the prestigious British Journal of Dermatology suggests that untreated dry skin does indeed lead to lines and wrinkles.  Even more interesting, the study found that consistant  use of moisturizers clearly prevented the development  of permanent wrinkling.

Here’s how it works:  Wrinkles develop overtime due to  repeated sun damage, hormonal changes and  repeated useage from facial expressions.  Every time we laugh, eat, shout, smile, talk or squint,  we  are straining the elastin and collagen fibers in the skin.  As the good ( and bad) times  go by, the skin gets quite a workout and temporary expressions become permanently etched in our faces.   Not to worry!  This new study  suggests that regular useage of moisturizers ” plasticize” the skin.  ( Their word, not mine) . This means that moisturizers, by keeping  the skin soft,  can help the skin resist mechanical damage.  In short,  moisturized skin resists  permanent creases from  temporary and repeated expressions.

So what’s  our take away here?  Very simply we should  start using moisturizers early and continue  using them faithfully.  But its  important   to pick a  product that  meets your needs.  If you skin tends  to break out, use an oil-freee formulation. During the day,  I’m a BIG fan of moisturizers with sunscreens.  At night use a moisturizer alone or over a treatment product like Retin A.  Turbo-powered anti-aging  ingredients  like alpha-hydroxy acids, soy extract, or green tea  will create a value-added moisturizer.  But whatever moisturizer you choose,  just use it regularly.

Anti-Aging At Any Age — The Fabulous Forties

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Right now on the newstand the models on the cover of three top magazines are over 40– Julia Roberts  in Elle and the two Jennifers, Aniston and Lopez, in Glamour and Bazaar. Its not just that these women look great  for 40.  Ladies,  this is what 40  can look like today. 

And this is true despite the fact that 40′s  are the start of true aging.  Up to this time,  beauty problems were  pseudo-aging from external  factors such as  sun exposure, cigarettes, alcohol use, stress and diet.  Now there is internal aging that affects how we look.  Our skin is getting drier and losing the ability to hold onto moisture. Fat pads under the eyes are shrinking which can increase under-eye shadows.  As the circulation starts to slow down, there is a decline in natural radiance.  Smile lines  appear when you are not smiling and squint lines frame the eye when its not sunny.

Stress seems to play a big role in aging in the fabulous forties.  Problems in a marriage, children, aging parents, a mid-life career crisis, and even real health issues are part of  the forties  landscape.  Its not uncommon to  look in the mirror and literally  feel older overnight.

Now is the time to introduce your skin to Retin A.  Start slowly with  a gentle formulation like .o4% Retin A  Micro and work up to using it 3x/ a week at bedtime.     The other four nights use a moisturizer with soy, green tea or peptides. As effective as they are,  AHA’s and vitamin C  may be too irritating  in the first six months on Retin A.

 Prescription retinoids restore radiance and healthy pink color. Different types of lasers will  make quick work  of other sudden signs of aging.  I used a YAG laser to vaporize large freckles and the IPL  ‘lunchtime laser”  to clear up dark patches and enlarged pores. Fraxel is among the newest lasers which has a big impact with a short healing time. The goal here is to mop up signs of aging that have appeared as well as prevent further problems.   According to noted derm, Dr Neil Sadick, Fraxel lasers   reduce  the appearance of fine  lines,  age spots and best yet, stimulates new  flexible collagen. This slows down the appearance of  sagging and wrinkling.  Nice!  Fraxel laser treatment is  near the top of  my anti-aging to-do list and I’ll post my experiences.

Sun protection continues to be important.  Try to routinely use  a broadspectrum 30-50 SPF sunblock.  If you are having  laser treatments, you need to switch to a mild  physical sunscreen  with zinc oxide like Neutrogena for Sensitive Skin SPF 30. Lasers also require stopping Retin A  days before and 3 days after  the treatment.

Next:  Daily skin care and a few  homemade products for the Fabulous Forties

Retin A in the Winter

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I’ve been using Retin A for almost a week and its been fairly easy.  But when the weather turned cold and windy, my cheeks got a bit red and my chin looked flaky.  It looked so minor, but  knowing  the potential for real irritation, I decided to take it seriously.  I decided to skip Retin A  that night and drenched my skin with Aveeno Soothing Moisturizer.  By morning the skin  was calm and soft. 

For me, the take away is that when using Retin A, you have to be flexible and think ahead.  I need to keep using Retin A  regularly to get the maximum beauty benefits– and this means changing routinue at the first sign of the irritation and dryness.

Close-up: Alpha Hydroxy Acids ( AHA)

Alpha Hydroxy Acids ( AHA), which are also called fruit acids, are naturally found in a wide range of foods including grapes ( tataric acid), apples (malic) , buttermilk (lactic acid), sugar cane (glycolic acid) and tomatoes (lactic acid).  Women throughout history have recognized the beauty potential of AHA.  Cleopatra is reported  to  have bathed in  sour milk to soften her desert-dried skin.  In the court of Louis XIV, woman made  facemasks of wine  to clarify their complexions.

Today you can find AHA in cleansers, body lotions, moisturizers,  face masks, and eye creams.  There’s a lot of great  research done on AHA  to back up beauty claims.  AHA’s can improve skin tone and texture, fade dark patches and  even stimulate growth of new  collagen and elastin.   AHA’s are sort of Retin A  light.    They work beautifully for younger skin ( under age 40).   I liked AHA so much I wrote a book about  it ( see photo) Its out of print now, but I’m looking to download  some chapters  if I can figure out how to do it. 

The best way to use AHA is in a   moisturizer or body lotion. ( A cleanser is on the skin too short a time to have an impact)  Look for a product that has between 5-10% AHA.  If a product doesn’t  give  the AHA percentage, check out where an AHA appears on the list of ingredients.  It should be among the first  five-seven ingredients to insure that the product  is going  to deliver  maximum beauty benefits.  Like Retin A, AHA makes the skin more sensitive to the sun, so you need a daytime moisturizer  with a 30 SPF. Its hard  to find to find a AHA mositurizer with a sunscreen- the two dont usually get along  in the same formulation. I found two AHA/sunscreen combo’s– Neutrogena Healthy Skin Skin Lotion SPF 15 ($12.99) and Skin Effects Glycolic Day Cream SPF30.  I don’t like to recommend products without trying them first, but I’m using Retin A and the combination with AHA can be very irritating.  I will try these products on my  winter-dry hands and legs.  I’ll take a before photo of my right hand and leg , use the products for two weeks and then take another set of photos.  The left hand and leg will act as controls.  Lets see if these AHA - rich products really got  game.    

Next time:  A Date with a Dermatologist

Building My Beauty Tool Kit

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When I left  the office of Dr Laser ( as I will call him) , he gave me a prescription for Retin A Micro and one piece of advice. ” Don’t use a washcloth or scrubbing grains”.  From the research I had done for my beauty books, I knew that  picking the right  products to use with Retin A  was  essential  to achieving the best results without quitting due to  dryness and irritation.   I made a list  of  four key products:

* Cleanser

* Eye Makeup Remover

* Sunscreen/ Moisturizer

* Nighttime Moisturizer

So I took my prescription  for Retin A Micro to the drugstore and was met with sticker shock.  It was $300/tube.  I debated with myself for a few minutes, then gave  it in to be filled.  Practically every dermatologist recommends a form of Retin A as the foundation of anti-aging skin care.  I thought about all the beauty products that I had used that never worked, all the shoes I bought that hurt too much to wear, not to mention over-priced meals at atrendy restaurants.  It  took away some of the pain of a $300 price tag. 

With the purchase of the pricy  Retin A, I wanted to build the rest of my beauty tool kit with affordable, effective products.  I needed just four, but they all had very specific criteria.

1.  The Ideal Cleanser — Given that Retin A can be so irritating, I needed a very very gentle cleanser.  This means  no scrubbing grains, no exfoliators ( eg alpha hydroxy acids), no retinol and  no washcloth.  I walked through the aisles of Duane Reade reading labels of products on seemingly endless  shelves.  I settled on an oldie but goodie– Cetaphil Gentle  Skin Cleanser (for all skin types).  This product has been around for years, but it met my criteria.  At  just $9/8oz, it took some of the sting out of the $300 Retin A.  I tossed in  a tube of disposable cotton pads to substitute for a washcloth.

2.  Eye Makeup Remover –I used to use a   washcloth to take off my mascara, but  since these are now  banned form  my beauty routinue, I needed another approach.  A friend suggested  Almay oil-free eye makeup remover.  On the  jar ( $5.99 ) Almay states that it is the #1 eye makeup remover.  I don’t know who made  this judgement, but it cerainly is an excellent product.  It  took off my mascara easily and was totally non-irritating. Even better it  did not  leave a blurry film on my eyes that had happened with other much more expensive eye makeup removers. So far, so good.

3. Sunscreen/Moisturizer –  Much of our skin aging is due to sun exposure, and just using a daily sunscreen has shown to protect the skin from aging UV rays.  Because Retin A  can be so drying, I also wanted  my sunscreen to double as a moisturizer.  Keep in mind that Retin A makes the skin  more vulnerable to sun damage, so this sunscreen/moisturizer  needed an SPF of  at least 15, and 30 would be even better.  One more criteria is also a deal breaker– it had to be non-greasy since  I will wear  make-up over it.   I will  also need to avoid ingredients that could be irritating ( eg AHA’s like glycolic acid  or retinol and vitamin C).  I found several products that fit the bill and  in the interest of research, I bought three of them for less than $50.

* Aveeno  Ultra Calming Daily Moisturizer, SPF 30 ( $17.39 for 2.5 oz)– This fragance-free product contains  feverfew, an herb  known for its soothing properties.  It is perfect for my purposes

*   L’oreal Skin Genesis Multi-layer Cell Strengthening Daily Moisturizer, SPF 15 ($17.80 for 1.7 oz)– I choose this product because it contained hyaluronic acid which is a powerful natural skin moisturizer.  In fact, one molecule of hyaluronic acid  can hold 1000x its weight in water.  Hyaluronic Acid  is an expensive compound, and it seemed that this product was the only drugstore brand that contained this water-attracting agent.    

* Cetaphil UVA/UVB SPF 50 ( ($13.99 for 1.7oz) – This turbo powered sunscreen  will be great for the summer months. 

4.  Nighttime Moisturizer – On this drugstore field trip I could not find what I was looking for — a heavier moisturizer that was free of irritaing ingredients such as retinol or AHA’s . I decided to use Skin Genesis that I had bought as a daytime moisturizer.  I loved that it had hyaluronic acid and decided that its sunscreen at night would not  be a problem.

I’m always looking for  new products that  meet my criteria.  Let me know what has worked for you.

Next post:  Starting with Retin A

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