Tag Archives: dermabrasion

Microdermabrasion– Five Top Questions

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1.  How does microdermabrasion work?

Microdermabrasion  removes the  top dead dry  layer of the skin a process that benefits different types of skin issues. For oily skin,  it  “de-roofs”  blocked pores  to remove  blackheads and reduce break-outs.  For dry aging skin, microdermabrasion makes the skin look fresh and glowing.  Many experts believe that  removing the top dead layer  of skin signals the skin to grow healthy firm skin. 

2.  Is there a difference between dermabrasion and microdermabrasion?

A big difference.  Dermabrasion is actually considered surgery.  It is  painful and local anesthesia is needed as  a laser removes most of the epiderrmis.  Afterwards the skin is raw, red and a bit bloody for at least a week.  Full healing can take months, but a successful dermabrasion  can lighten dark patches, remove fine lines and erase acne scars.

Microdermabrasion is not nearly so intense.  It is considered a procedure ( rather than surgery) and can be done in an office by a doctor or their assistants.  The full court press microdermabrasion  uses a combination of  suction and metallic crystals.  There are at least a dozen different brands of microdermabrasion devices including Parisian Peel and the Hydra- Facial– my personal favorite.

Here’s how it works:

During an office based microdermabrasion the machine wand blasts the skin with aluminium  crystals or a diamond tipped head.  The attached suction device  pulls the skin to provide  better access as welll as captures the loosened skin cells. Many  microdermabrasion machines also infuse skin care products ( peptide or vitamin C serums) into the treated skin.Microdermabrasion improves the quality  of the skin’s surface.  There is no healing time and you leave the office looking  fresh and radiant.

3. Can I use Retin A with microdermabrasion?

To avoid unnecessary redness, irritation and peeling, you should stop using Retin A  48 hours before and after microdermabrasion. If your skin is dry and/or sensitive you might also want  to avoid other potential irritants including vitamin C, glycolic acid  or scrubbing grains.

4. Who should not use microdermabrasion?

As  good as it is, microdermabrasion can be a problem  if you have certain types of underlying skin care problems.   If you have active rosacea or acne, psoriasis, eczema, open sores or herpes, microdermabrasion can makes these problems worse.  If you tend to develop darkened or discolored patches ( hyperpigmentation) from irritation,  microdermabrasion  may  provoke new pigmentation rather than remove it.

5. Do  home microdermabrasion kits really work?

Most of the home microdermabrasion kits are traditional exfoliators using  scrubbing grains or brushes to remove dry dead  surface skin. Some like the DDF Micropolishing System use a rotary pad with polishing crystals- closely related to the effective office based procedure, but do  not have the suction action of a physicians  microdermabrasion system.  However they are a great budget beauty option.  Most are around $50 $100 for  the kit  while   microdermabrasion with a dermatologist  runs $150-300 per session.

Milia – those annoying white bumps under the skin

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Its amazing what you can learn at a medical conference.  At a lunchbreak at the recent Mount Sinai Derm meeting, I sat down next  to two young dermatologists.  They were  talking about milia, those little white bumps under the skin– sort of faux pimples. ( In the picture below my milia is under my eye). Milia are formed when a pore becomes blocked with dead skin cells.  They are more common as we get older,  the result of slower cell growth.  Unlike the garden variety pimple, they do not contain oil or bacteria  so they don’t become red and inflamed.   Milia  just sit there. Forever.

Another important difference, milia are actually  in the dermis and if you try to  remove them yourself, you  can do real  damage to the skin. Seriously, you can get infections and even  scar the area.  Case in point:  Even when I had my milia removed by a physician, I got a shiner! 

Sitting next to the derms I learned two new facts:

1) The best way to deal with milia is to exfoliate regularly with Retin A,  dermabrasion or glycolic peels.  Milia tend to come back in the same area but since I have been using Tri-luma  ( which conains Retin-A), I  have been milia-free.

2) Its an old wives tale  that  rich face creams promote milia.  Good to know  since I use a moisturizer under my eyes every night. 

I’d love to hear about  your experiences with milia.  Where  do they appear?  How do you handle them?